July 2: Day 62, Sodankylä-Tankavaara
Today's breakfast had all the usual stuff, but it had a bit of character. There was "strawberry-lime raw porridge", "blueberry soup", "ginger turmeric shot". This is perhaps the second time in my life I've been excited by porridge, and the first was before I’d actually eaten it. Well, it was good! And I'd have had seconds if it meant I didn't take an unfair share.
They had cooked options too. "Rolled bacon", that label is accurate. "Oven cheese omelette" doesn't sound enticing, but it's unscrambled eggs; and it’s tasty. "Rice pie" was new to me so I took one - it's basically a dry rice pudding in dry pastry. I didn't have a second one.
They also had croissants but they were dry and unappetizing. Perhaps the same cook who was in charge of the rice pie...? I guess that means I should give the rice pie a second chance; if this was my first croissant I would wonder what all the fuss was about.
From left to right: various breakfast options. The view from my room at 1130 last night.
The big news for today is that it's going to be cold: the forecast said 7-9°C. This is unexpectedly cold - yesterday was about 18 degrees, and the low temperature last year was about 10°C. Midsummer was just two weeks ago! So when getting suited up I also put on my jersey.
First stop is the supermarket. The next one is about 150km away so in addition to lunch I picked up some things to cover a few meals, just in case it was needed. And some pastry.
After that it was the usual story of cyclepaths for a few kilometers out of the city, then onto the road. The cyclepath ran beside the river, surrounded by forest - very nice to be out there looking at it! I took some photos, but they don't do it justice, and I think I've taken twenty other similar photos already this trip...
But I think the forecast temperatures were optimistic. The jersey wasn't enough so I added gloves; I haven't worn these since the training rides. About an hour later I put on the merino undershirt, which I only brought along just in case of emergencies, or an unseasonal cold snap. I didn't need it when out and about in 5 degrees in Amsterdam, and I was quite glad to have it today, so I’m not sure the forecast was accurate.
From left to right: pedestrian crossing button, it’s the circle with a hand. Gloves on. Cycleway beside the river. Bridges over lakes are still nice, even after a fortnight in Scandinavia. Merino layer on too…
One advantage of this cold temperature is that no insects were out. I stopped for lunch at a rest stop - there wasn't anything to lean my bike against or sit down on, but because of the lack of insects I'd still choose it.
It got progressively greyer after lunch. There was a scattering of clouds so the sun came and went; it was warm enough when in the sunlight but noticeably colder in shadow. The weather forecast claimed there was no chance of rain, but that also looked optimistic.
The forecast did get the headwind right though, but I've complained about headwinds enough this trip, so there's not anything new to add.
I passed into an area where the road was wet, so it had rained earlier. A bit further along it started to drizzle: stop and put on the raincoat or keep going? I opted to keep going, and climbed a hill while the rain got harder. And added some small hailstones. From the top I couldn't see dry road in front so I went for the sensible option, pulled over and got out the raincoat and lights. There was enough rain and hail to make it worthwhile ... but five minutes later it ended, so I probably should have stuck it out.
It didn't just end, the sun came out, and it got too hot for the merino! I kept the jersey, the temperature was nicer but still not that nice. And to improve things further, a bit further along there was a cafe! It had a great view of the river so I pulled in, and got a coffee and cheesecake. It was so warm and sunny I even sat outside. It had also warmed up enough for one lone overachieving horsefly to show up, but it was so groggy it couldn't figure out which things were human and which were wood so it didn't bother me.
From left to right: after the rain had stopped. Cheesecake, and the river view. I’ve been following this line for the last few weeks. Getting the raingear out is such a hassle I get selfies to commemorate it. And then the weather cleared up again.
Three hours to go. Occasionally I'd pass cyclists going the other way, four in all. Did they fly in to Kirkenes, and leave their bikeboxes there, I wonder? The airport is on the way into Kirkenes so I'm planning to visit and check the recycling when I go past. But transporting a big cardboard bikebox 13km to where I'm staying may be a challenge...
It's starting to get colder, so I bring out the jersey again. Not far to go; I’m sure I can get there before I need the merino...
I arrive at 1730. Another slow day - the forecast was 5.5 hours but it took 7. It’s the headwind.
From left to right: this is the standard bus stop in Finland, it’s so good I should have got a photo earlier. View from a bridge. The best building I’ve seen today! I can only assume some pagan rites involve … bicycles? The cabin where I’m staying tonight.
I'm staying at a place in the middle of nowhere, there's no other accomodation options for a few hours... and there's a mixup: I thought I was getting a hotel room, but I actually got an unheated three-bed cabin at a campsite. That was not made clear on the booking website! Well, it's better than camping, especially since the temperature is forecast to drop to 3°C overnight. I may need all three duvets.
What I’m listening to: Too Late To Love You / Ben Babbit, from the “Kentucky Route Zero” soundtrack: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xD3tkW_quTM
Also: Long Journey Home: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lLd1zBgXX7c
