October 1: Day 4, San Sebastian to Cerro Sombrero
The Patagonian weather experience continues today!
The forecast was: 1-5, low chance of rain, light wind from the west. Sounds reasonable - since it's above zero, there should be no ice or snow or sleet or hail or anything.
(You know where this is going. And it's good.)
And unlike yesterday, the forecast was right! There was a light dusting of overnight snow, but it melted through the day because it was not too cold, the sun was out, but best of all: there was almost no wind. Maybe this isn't unusual but it's the first time in my time here when there haven't been strong winds.
Started out a bit late, at 10am, because I spent too long nattering with the owner of the hostel. Started again at 1010 because I forgot to return my room key, oops.
Chilean roads are great. They're made of smooth flat concrete slabs which has a great surface, and there's a good gravel shoulder that's a similar height. (I notice that part especially, after dropping the bike on day #1.) And today at least, it was mostly flat and the climbs weren't steep! Combined with the lack of wind I was able to get a good pace going. Even managed to get the chain onto the smallest gears that hide right at the back, which doesn't happen often enough. I ended up finishing a good half hour faster than Komoot's estimate which hasn't happened to me before, when I have all the extra weight on. So it was a seriously quick day.
From left to right: The view when I went for breakfast. The road when I started, plus a selfie. Llama warning signs in Chile look a bit like Moomins to me.
Saw a lot of llamas today. I'd see them crossing the road, or deciding not to cross, or being indecisive and running parallel to the road along a fence. And they jump fences like deer! So it's no wonder they're on the road so often.
They do avoid cars, I saw some llamas head a car coming and turn away. But they also avoid bicycles, oddly. A few times I'd see some llamas right beside the road, I'd pedal carefully to avoid making noise, hoping to get close enough for a good photo - but when they noticed me they'd run in fright.
From left to right: two llamas about to jump the fence. Lunch. The road picture where I dropped my glove. Complementary selfie.
As well as being snow-free and wind-free it was also drama-free. The only actual dramatic tension that happened was late afternoon when I thought I'd get a photo of the long straight road, figured I should get the picture from the centerline since there was no traffic. I was setting up the shot when I saw a truck in the distance so I retreated to the roadside ... and then realized I'd dropped my glove. Would the truck driver squash it, or straddle it? Option C, they went into the other lane! So the glove was untouched.
And inconsequential dramas like this are all I want, after the last few days.
Tomorrow I take the ferry across the Strait of Magellan. This is a devious waterway which is an alternative to going around Cape Horn - which has a certain reputation. It's 2h30 to the ferry, and 2h30 afterwards to San Gregorio. If all goes well it'll be a short day. And the day after is another short day to Rio Gallegos, where I’m planning a rest day. Looking forward to that…